Back at the Up and Up

Two years ago, I sat down and wrote a blog post having no idea what the path back to the mountains would look like. I was in North Carolina experiencing a new part of the country and an entirely different culture. It’s not fair to say it didn’t agree with me; there were many aspects that enhanced my perspective on the world and brought me understanding that I likely wouldn’t have gained otherwise. However, I found myself longing to be back somewhere that I not only connected with, but also brought me peace.

In what I can only say was a very fortunate series of events, I’ve found myself back in the Pacific Northwest, this time in Portland, Oregon. I’ve been here for over a year now and it’s fair to say that, apart from some almost comical injuries, I’ve found the peace I was looking for.  Fortunately, the setbacks were not enough to keep my fitness progress stalled and I’ve been able to get out and enjoy the surrounding high places. So much so that I’m fortunate to be in a position to join some of the finest group of climbers I’ve had the pleasure of meeting on a journey, hopefully, to the top of Alaska’s Denali starting just 10 days from now.

The team is comprised of five current and former Air Force members and a professional videographer. We had a chance to climb together earlier this month in Colorado and had a blast practicing some technical skills and getting to know each other better. Before that, all we could say is everyone knew someone; no one knew everyone. Now with personalities clicking and the stoke growing, we are ready for what looks to be one of the more technical climbs and descents I’ve done in a long while.

We fly onto the glacier 29 May and will be attempting the Upper West Rib with a ski/board descent of the Messner Couloir (conditions permitting). We will follow the standard Western Buttress route to the 14,000’ camp before branching out for our summit attempt. This includes landing on the glacier at 7,200’ followed by camps at 7,800’, 9,500’, and 11,000’. If conditions support it, our current plan is to make a summit attempt direct from 14,000’ to 20,310’ and back down in one push. This will save us several days on the mountain and allow us to make the attempt in a narrower weather window instead of having to establish a 17,000’ camp via the normal route. If the conditions and weather conspire against us, we always have the option to join the rest of the climbers up the Western Buttress.

It probably won’t surprise you to learn there is virtually no cell or internet connection up there and our only communication will be via a satellite texting device. As such, I won’t be able to give anecdotes about the experience until I get back. I will, however, try to keep the GPS tracker going when we are on the move and will have my girlfriend post to my social media letting everyone know what is going on.

If you’re curious and want to know more about the climb, feel free to reach out before I head out on 28 May. Otherwise, I’ll make a post when I get back and let you all know how it turns out.

-Wes