Namche to Thyangboche to Pangboche to Pheriche

As expected, the second day in Namche was purposefully uneventful. At least physically. Some folks got massages, most of us did some perusing around the town, and we all did our secret Santa shopping. After lunch, we had a quick high altitude discussion to talk about the myriad problems we could as we head up higher. This of course was a huge downer and even the most optimistic of us left feeling like a bit of a hypochondriac. It was a good thing we had the secret Santa exchange shortly thereafter to take our minds elsewhere. The theme was “not serious but comedically useful”. I ended up with a pair of briefs that, while stylish, will likely have to wait until I get back to civilization to utilize. Just kidding, underwear is for suckers!

Anyway, I think we were all ready to get to bed that evening so we could wake up and knock out the next leg of trip. While Thyangboche is only about 1,000’ feet higher than Namche the trek involves over 2000’ of climbing since we had to drop back down to the river to get to the other side of the valley. While this may sound less than fun the views the entire way were stunning. When the trail wasn’t affording views of towering peaks (to include Everest peering out over the top of the Nuptse ridge) the rhododendrons with their full bloom where more than enough to keep our necks craning. In fact, about the only thing that has been less than pleasant has been is the dust. It has been a dry spring

in the Khumbu. The trails, the fields, and even some of the peaks seem to be a bit devoid of moisture. The climbers in the group are hoping for some snow up higher to make the climbing a little more manageable. The treks are hoping for the same but only after they head back down the valley toward warmer climates.

A few of us made it to Thyangboche by lunch and enjoyed a quiet meal in our tea house watching trekkers crest the ridge. On that same ridge, and across the trail from our perch, is one of the biggest monasteries in the valley. After dropping our bags in our rooms my two fellow speed demons and I headed over to have a look. It was quite the set up with the large spinning cylinders (whose names I will remember and post later), ornate wood work, stone walkways, and a courtyard that most school kids would be jealous of. The best part was the main room (vacant of any monks at the time) where most of the chanting takes place-or so I’m told. The walls, ceiling, columns, and statues were all brilliantly painted. The craftsmanship and detail of the décor was exactly what you’d expect to see in the heart of Buddhist country. Were it not for the fact that my mom would probably come over and drag me home I’d think about getting a rob and taking some vows.

By the time we got back to the tea house the rest of the crew had arrived. We chatted for a bit before people peeled off to take naps, read books, go to the bakery, or tour the monkery. With only about six buildings in the village of Thyangboche the happenings tend to be on the slow slide. As such, the social event that is dinner was highly anticipated and welcomed when it finally arrived. More chatting, ribbing, and general tomfoolery ensued followed by another early bedtime.

The next day brought a bit later start as we were only moving up to about 12,500’ from 12,200’. Of course, the actual trail was probably closer to 1,000’ of gain but even the horizontal distance to Pangboche was only about 3-4 miles. Setting out at 9 AM most of us were enjoying a hot drink at our next tea house by 11 AM. The sky was a bit hazy in the morning which gave way to low clouds as the day went on. By the time we went to see the local Lama at 3 PM it was trying to snow. Luckily, the 30-minute walk up to his residence stayed mostly dry despite the threatening clouds and low temperature. We were received after gifting the recommended 1,000 rupees ($10) apiece and received a blessing from Lama Geshe himself. It was quite a unique thing to get to experience a Buddhist ritual in person. Hopefully it will bring us a little luck up higher. Nothing like trying to pay off the gods 😉

With the blessing over and the trek back to the tea house complete we settled in for dinner and another uneventful and early evening. Or so I thought. Getting ready for bed at about 9 PM I was headed out of my room to brush my teeth when I overestimated the height of my hobbit door. I stumbled trying to keep my balance as the world slowly came back into focus. Fortunately, one of my teammates was walking down the hall and witnessed the whole thing. From what I’m told I make minor head injuries look good. I don’t think I got a concussion but my world was definitely spinning for a few seconds and I got a shallow cut across the top of my head.

This morning was a bit of a later start. The trek between Pangboche and Pheriche gains about 1,500’ over about 6 miles and is actually a pretty gentle grade. The climbers and a few of the trekkers set off a little faster and made the trip in about 2 hours. For those of you following along on the elevation charts that puts us right at 14,000’ here in Pheriche. As you would expect the temps have gotten progressively cooler-especially at night. We also left the last of the trees at about 13,500’ and the grasses and shrubs won’t last much longer. For the next 40 days it’ll be rock, ice, wind, prayer flags, tents, and maybe a yeti if we are really lucky.

Pheriche is the last place I’ll have connectivity until we get to base camp in 5 days. Between now and then we have an active rest day tomorrow followed by the trek to Lobuche base camp (15,500’). We will spend two days there doing some day acclimatization hikes before making the final push up to base camp at 17,500’. When I get in and settled up there I’ll make a final update on the trek. From there the trip turns to climbing and I can’t wait to get up!

Author: upwithwes

A blog about going high places. View all posts by upwithwes