Kathmandu to Lukla to Phakding to Namche

Hello from the Khumbu valley! What a great start the past 3 days have been. I was up earlier than expected on the 8^th thanks to a partial prank phone call wake up from our guide (the game has been started and the bar has been set!). From there it was pretty much like a little kid at Christmas getting all my bags together and downstairs. With a bit of food we loaded up the vans and headed to the airport.

As expected it was a bit of hurry up and wait but not near as bad as it could have been. In a little under two hours we loaded onto the cramped twin engine prop job and took to the skies. However, I think our jaws never left the ground. It was a beautiful sunny morning and the Himalayas were on full display. Flying at around 12,000’ we were only clearing some of the ridges by a couple hundred feet with peaks shooting up thousands of feet on either side. About 25 minutes into the 30 minute flight the reason for this trip came into sight. For about 60 seconds everyone on the plane was starring out the left side at the snow being blasted off the tallest peak in the world. Even as other peaks obscured our view the excitement level only went up as we looked ahead at the mountain we were aimed directly at. The ground came rushing up to meet us as the pilot flared the plane up the 12% graded runway bringing us to a stop just as the 1,600’ runway came to an end.

With bags and passengers deplaned we rounded the corner and went up on the wall overlooking the runway in just enough time to see the same plane lining up to fly back to Kathmandu. Maybe it’s the pilot in me but I could have watched the planes come in a go all day. However, after a quick tea it was time to trek. The valley really starts to shoot up on either side pretty dramatically as you leave Lukla and we were quickly making our way into the Khumbu.

Surprisingly, the trail is mostly downhill the first day. Weaving along and crossing our first steel cable suspension bridge we made our way to our lunch spot at one of many tea houses along the way. It was a good expectation setter as far was what our food options will be over the next 2 weeks as we make our way to base camp. Certainly not bad, but there are limits to what can be carried in a timely manner on a yak.

Stomachs filled we set off again and reached our first stop in Phakding around 3 PM. With more hot drinks we got settled in and enjoyed the view of the surrounding mountains. This started our now routine of ordering dinner right as we roll in so that the tea house owners can coordinate plates and eating times for all their guests that evening. In between arrival and dinner there was quite a bit of down time to continue to get to know the other trekkers and climbers. I have to say that I lucked out being on this team. Such great people! The afternoon, dinner, and evening pasted with lots of laughs and some great story telling. However, with the early morning and the lingering effects of jetlag we were soon settling down on what must be one of the hardest “beds” I’ve ever slept on. But with an en-suite bathroom we might as well have been in a five-star resort!

The first wakeup in the valley was fairly uneventful. We woke, packed, ate, and had a quick team meeting about the day. The Sherpa and our western guide took positions and we headed off on the beautiful cool morning. This leg saw more river crossings, yak and mule trains, and small villages as we started a gentle uphill stroll. After almost an hour and 45 minutes we had apparently earned our lunch break. We sat down around 10:30 and leisurely ordered put in our order. This particular tea house was like something out of a dream. The courtyard we sat in was shadowed by a blooming cherry tree with views through the glass dining room across the valley at mountains that housed trees then rocks then ice as your gaze went up from the valley floor. Not a bad place to spend an hour and a half taking in the sights and sounds.

With lunch wrapped up I set out a little ahead of the rest of the folks to stretch my legs at a slightly increased pace. It was great to get a little solitude as I started the hike up Namche Hill. This 2000’ gain leading into the largest village in the valley is pretty infamous as the sun can be relenting and the “reprieve” of a rainstorm invites mud that can make feet heavy. Fortunately, there was a strong breeze that kept the heat at bay. Other than making dicey the crossing of another steel cable bridge about 400 hundred feet above the river below, it was a welcomed companion.

I strolled into Namche about 2 PM and found our home for the next three nights: the Khumbu Lodge. I checked in, showered up, and sipped on some tea as the rest of the team filed in over the afternoon. Being a much strenuous day, most folks headed to bed shortly after dinner. I was also tired as well but was able to get in a quick call to my brother Clint on his birthday before turning in for the night.

Today was a scheduled active rest day which saw us set off for the Everest View Hotel shortly after breakfast. It was an hour and a half hike gaining 1,200’ directly out of Namche. And what a difference in views that relatively small gain makes. Ama Dablam quickly came into view followed shortly by Everest itself. Having made the gain we traversed over to the hotel perched at 12,500’ where we ordered tea and watched in awe as the snow whipped off the peak jutting into the jet stream. A few of my fellow climbers and I started laughing as we realized we still have over 3 vertical miles to gain before we get a chance to put our boot prints on top.

After tea with a view we made our way off the beaten path to the Edmund Hilary school in Khumjung. This school was set up by Hilary himself and there is a bust of him prominently displayed near the football (soccer) field. With the tour complete I headed back to Namche with one of our Sherpa to have lunch and catch up on the blog. As I was writing this post who would walk into the same tea house as me but Ueli Steck! Such a cool thing to be sharing the mountain with such an accomplished climber.

Tonight over dinner we are going to establish some rules for a mock gift exchange tomorrow night curtesy of the myriad shops here in Namche. It will be a true down day so we should have plenty of time to relax, get some laundry done, and get ready to head up the valley on the 12^th. That’s it for the past 3 days. Cheers from Namche!

Author: upwithwes

A blog about going high places. View all posts by upwithwes